Pritesh Khare, 21 May 2023

I’m thrilled to share my soul-stirring journey to Lahaul Valley, a pristine Himalayan sanctuary in Himachal Pradesh, India, where towering peaks cradle vibrant cultural traditions. Once a remote realm sealed by the Rohtang Pass, Lahaul captivated me through the heartfelt hospitality of Flying Monk Adventures in Gushal Village. Dedicated to Vikas Rockpa aka Kaku bhai , the visionary behind this venture, this narrative celebrates Lahaul’s untouched splendor and the human connections that make it unforgettable, inviting you to discover a destination that feels like a divine retreat.

A Gateway to Lahaul’s Majesty

Nestled in the Lahaul and Spiti district, Lahaul Valley was once isolated for half the year by the snow-laden Rohtang Pass at 3,980 meters. Villages like Gushal thrived on resilience, their stories woven into the rugged landscape. The 2020 opening of the Atal Tunnel, a 10-kilometer engineering marvel, has transformed access, linking Manali to Lahaul in a breathtaking drive. Emerging from the tunnel, I was spellbound by a panorama of jagged peaks, the shimmering Chandra River, and a tranquil aura befitting the valley’s Tibetan name, “Lhahi-yul,” or “land of the gods.”

While the tunnel’s feat is remarkable, it’s the people who breathe life into Lahaul. At Flying Monk Adventures in Gushal, Vikas Rockpa’s warmth turned my visit into a profound bond with the valley.

The Son of Gushal: Flying Monk Adventures | Vikas Rockpa

Arriving at Flying Monk Adventures in Gushal Village remains a cherished memory. The soft creak of the homestay’s wooden door revealed a serene courtyard, where the crisp Himalayan air enveloped me like a gentle embrace. Vikas Rockpa, the heart of the venture, welcomed me with a radiant smile and a handful of sun-ripened apricots, making me feel like family. Over steaming cups of desi coffee and fragrant green tea, his stories wove a tapestry of Lahaul’s heritage, instantly rooting me to this remote haven.

In a single day, Kaku bhai crafted an immersive adventure. He guided me on a trek above Gushal, where the village nestled below, framed by a sacred Peak piercing the sky. Over tea, he shared enchanting tales of the Topchiling Monastery and the legend of the Flying Monk—a story best experienced firsthand. His dedication shone through, from arranging conversations with the village sarpanch to introducing me to local households, ensuring I felt the pulse of Gushal’s culture. Vikas’s passion for sharing Lahaul’s soul left an indelible mark.

Lahaul’s Timeless Allure

Lahaul Valley is a symphony of contrasts—lush fields against stark cliffs, ancient rituals alongside vibrant communities. Keylong, the district’s heart at 3,156 meters, pulses with Buddhist heritage, its monasteries like Kardang adorned with vivid murals and sacred statues. The Chandra and Bhaga rivers, merging at Tandi to form the mighty Chenab, nurture vibrant patches of potatoes and peas, painting the rugged terrain with bursts of green.

Gushal, home to Flying Monk Adventures, embodies Lahaul’s serene spirit. Its harsh winters, once isolating, are celebrated in the Halda festival, where cedar torches blaze to ward off spirits, blending Buddhist and indigenous traditions. The warmth of Gushal’s residents, speaking the melodic Tibetic Lahuli dialect, creates a sense of belonging worlds away from Manali’s bustle.

A Bond That Endures

My brief stay in Gushal, enriched by Flying Monk Adventures, was unforgettable. I explored Lahaul’s treasures—Sissu’s cascading waterfall, Udaipur’s ancient Malling Mahadev Temple—but Gushal lingered in my heart. I felt at home in a remote village, spiritually fulfilled without a temple, and alive with a newfound vitality. This connection drew me back a year later, yearning to weave myself into Lahaul’s rhythm.

Returning to Gushal, I embraced a simpler life—tending farms, unplugging from digital noise, and soaking in the valley’s essence. Inspired by Flying Monk Adventures’ commitment to sustainable tourism, I set out to amplify Lahaul’s global presence through stories and visuals. My YouTube videos about the homestay offer a glimpse of Lahaul’s magic—find them and let the valley’s allure captivate you.

Adventures in a Himalayan Eden

Lahaul is a playground for explorers. Treks from Darcha to Baralacha La unveil gems like Suraj Taal, India’s third-highest lake at 4,890 meters, while Chandra Taal’s turquoise waters mesmerize. The Kibber Wildlife Sanctuary shelters elusive snow leopards and ibex, and spotting a snow leopard in Miyar Valley was a heart-pounding thrill.

The Atal Tunnel has welcomed millions—over 20 lakh in 2022—but preserving Lahaul’s pristine ecosystem is paramount. Flying Monk Adventures leads by example in responsible tourism, and I followed suit, sticking to designated trails and supporting local businesses to honor the valley’s delicate balance.

A Call to Discover Lahaul

Lahaul Valley, once a hidden gem, now beckons while retaining its unspoiled essence. Its peaks, monasteries, and hosts like Vikas Rockpa at Flying Monk Adventures craft a journey that feels otherworldly. Before chasing distant horizons, explore India’s treasures—villages like Gushal, experiences like Flying Monk, and the paradise of Lahaul. Visit between June and September with warm layers, and let this valley enchant you, as Rudyard Kipling might say, in a land where “the gods reside.”

To Vikas Rockpa and Lahaul’s communities, thank you for turning travelers into storytellers. I’m honored to share this odyssey and inspire others to explore your extraordinary world.